Deleece is a pleasantly modest place in a pleasantly modest part of Lakeview. It's the sort of neighborhood spot that I wish was a few blocks closer and was cooking at a few levels higher. The space is airy and modern, the waitstaff friendly.
My lobster benedict, however, intended to be a luxurious overindulgence, was mildly disappointing. The lobster lacked the luscious sweetness necessary to slice through a truffle hollandaise that buries the dish. The thing about truffle, is that it belongs either as a gentle accent to more complex dishes, or as the aggressor to aggressively one-noters like fries. Every other bite I try, from the promising-sounding cinnamon caramel beignets and the steak and eggs are also similarly fine, somewhat comforting, and mildly disappointing.
It's a nice spot of town to waste a few sunny weekend hours. If only the food was made to match.
1.5/5 stars
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