Every diner has their one bugaboo. Sometimes, it doesn't matter how overrated or overpriced an item is, you just get it. I have a soft spot for alfredo. One friend will order rice rolls (RICE!). And my sister will order crabcakes. I put on my crotchety old man pants every time I look at a menu and there is a $15 crabcake. Singular. This time I felt a little better about it, as they were crawfish--which aren't exactly flying around Chicago kitchens--and this was Big Jones. But still, I was a little nervous when two dainty little snickerdoodles masquerading as crawfish fritters showed up on the plate.
But these were greaselessly fried, thick with meat, and jumped up with an aggressive seasoning that I loved. I almost wished there was a giant $15 puck I could order. Almost.
Less successful were some beignets. Which were overshadowed by the Grand Lux Cafe. It's not a good sign when chain restaurants got you. But then again, who doesn't love McDonalds? And the tete de cochon is a bit of a trip. Gelatinous and uncompromising, something more to be respected than enjoyed. Some stone ground mustard and pickled red onions aren't interesting enough to rectify the dish.
The eggs benedict comes on a popover. Not a fluffy cloud of a popover, but something a little bit more sad and mashed down. Thankfully, there are poached eggs spilling their thick golden yolks over salty ham and a hollandaise that is inexplicably southern.
I liked Big Jones. I did not love it. Perhaps it might just require swimming from their shallows and into the deep end.
3/5 stars
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