Frog n Snail: Dinner Review

For a long time, I had been dying to go to Dale Levitski's Sprout. Cheeky pairings, whimsical presentations, and an intimidating pricepoint--I maintained a sullen inner monologue that this was one restaurant out of my league. When I first read about Frog n Snail's mission statement (updated versions on bistro classics) opening up on my doorstep, I was bored. When Eater displayed the images of the interior, I remained bored. Everything looked clean, classy, and minimalist, but I was searching for a sense of personality.

I went anyway, my excitement-meter still managed to point right as opening day neared and neared, and I ended up going in the restaurant's first week (always a tough time, so caveats aplenty). Still, the service was pleasant, with one minor fumble quickly corrected, and our waiter was effusive and personal in a good way. He heavily pimped the brook trout and barramundi muniere (untried), as "aromatic" and other sorts of superlatives and the mussels. The mussels were certainly good, if not No.1 or 2 as advertised. They lacked the kick of absinthe we were looking for, and the broth was a touch oversalted, but still plenty enjoyable.

The "incredibly aromatic" brook trout smelled like fish and almonds. This is not a bad thing, nor is it an incredible thing. I'm still waiting for fine dining to elevate the simple fish, which is quick, easy, and tasty in the hands of a homecook who won't destroy the damned thing. Someone do something about it already! The marcona almond cream sauce is fine and light, and the escargot are sauteed well, but without the usual accompanying butter and herbs, which I begin to quickly miss.

The lamb curry is similarly disappointing. It follows in the recent and troubling tradition of good Chicago restaurants cooking cuts of meat to proper tenderness with little flavor. It's devoid of the gamey mineral flavor I had from a few supermarket chops I enjoyed earlier. The curry is meek and I am forced to hunt for my goat cheese, just a few tiny bits scattered around that when discovered, lend the dish some much-needed funk and flavor. I'll admit, of the accompanying mint gnocchi, I think I just don't enjoy gnocchi in general (How is it any better than regular potatoes?), but one doesn't order a lamb curry with goat cheese if they're looking for something simple and spare. Like the restaurant and the fish, it is incredibly clean, light, and washed out of any personality. There is a difference between purity and simplicity of flavor and muting the best parts.

All this sounds tough on a brand-new and strangely-affordable restaurant filled with talented and pleasant people working out the kinks. And the lamb is one of the few dishes on the official menu that has been updated (broccoli, BLT, and boursin aioli). These people certainly deserve more chances, they should just give their own creativity some.

2/5 stars (Opening Week)