Let me preface things by saying that I love brunch. My family loves brunch. My friends love brunch. If you think brunch is overpriced eggs, then you are technically correct and also incredibly wrong. Brunch has the power to transform a forgettable thing like breakfast or lunch into something greater, and for some places, this power is a touch necessary.
Hearty is almost hidden on a modest little piece of street, and it keeps things civilized in modern 70s chic and a pleasant host in mesmerizingly red pants. Our waitress is a bit more cold, though that may be written off to the crowd on Easter day, though Hearty carries neither a holiday menu nor a particularly holiday crowd.
My plate of chicken and waffles smells inviting and homey, and the chestnut farina waffle and sorghum butter are simple and comforting. The chicken, however, lacks seasoning and spice to bring out the pleasantly sweet bird flavor, and it's unfortunately fried into toughness. The pork belly hash shows a similar lack of precision. This time the meat's tender, but the hash is also watery and lacks seasoning and flavor once more. But there is something magical about the breaking of two properly-poached eggs and the joys of watching gooey yolks spread over potatoes and pork.
And the lemon curd pancakes are fluffy and creamy and, in fact, taste like a well-made lemon bar, which may be a detriment to some, and a plus for me. So despite my ambivalence and wishes for salt and spice, my time at Hearty ends well. The windows take the sunlight, the eggs ooze, and useless piece of meal like Sunday lunch is briefly turned into something better.
2/5 stars
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