Maison: Raw Bar Review

Tucked away in the secret valley of Lakeshore East next to my beloved Mariano's Fresh Market and Eggy's, the brand new diner of impeccable benedicts, is the addition of Maison. When I first heard a new restaurant was opening there, I was a touch disappointed to know that another French brasserie was coming, with classical renditions of classical dishes. What was there to distinguish this brasserie from other ones?

Well for one thing, there's a half-off raw bar from 10-11pm Monday to Saturday. I wish I could say that my life did not revolve around filling my body with affordable food, but this would not be true. On first impression, even at 10pm, there should be a host manning the podium at the front. The second: this is one of the most swanky beautiful places I've ever walked into, especially late at night, with gorgeous red banquettes creating spicy accents in an elegant black and white interior. In many other restaurants, the place would be coldly calculated, stylishly sterile. Against the night sky and the park, it's just plain lovely.

We are sat next to the panoramic windows and quickly set to work on a basket of bread, butter, salt, and radishes, the latter of which are strangely served whole. Then out comes the centerpiece, a triple tier seafood platter. While the waiter struggles identifying a few of the accompanying sauces (the standout a spunky, creamy tartar), he quickly judges the tenor of our table and relaxes into charming casualness. While he mixes in a gentle sell in every once in a while, he also shows a generosity of spirit. Extra bites and sips are offered throughout.

The oysters are nicely briny, but they lack the plumpness I'm seeking. And one of them is poorly shucked, with a broken shell and bits of debris. The crab and the lobster (half of one) are fine, but they lack the necessary chill sweetness that makes you close your eyes. Luckily, fat juicy shrimp, lightly poached, redeem the whole thing, and they are helped by the steamed mussels. The gougeres have a wonderfully fluffy texture, though they are strangely lukewarm, and the gruyere needs extra salinity.

However, any mixed feelings are wiped away by the ice creams and sorbetti. We try a hazelnut, just incredible, intense flavor, that makes you instantly recognize the difference between artificial versions and the right stuff. The almond is pleasant though less memorable, but we're quickly jolted out of any tedium by a shot of raspberry, a puckeringly sweet-tart shocker with lemon notes. It's a lot of fun.

The food might not have been overall amazing. But when you sit down at night for a couple sleek glasses of wine, platters of seafood, intense dessert in good company in a beautiful restaurant and come out at about $30, you're doing pretty darn well anyway. I'm glad this brasserie's in town.

3/5 stars