When I looked up Sapori Trattoria online, my immediate read was "slightly-above-average neighborhood Italian joint." Unfortunately, these eateries are a dime a dozen, fortunately, they're still above average. Just as suspected, Sapori is a casually elegant spot, its ambiance avoiding the checkered tablecloths-Frank-Sinatra-on-the-wall cliches.
The service is charming and quick, though I wish my server could help me choose between two disparate dishes, especially with a bit more description. Only, she seems so put on the spot, I feel sympathetic for her and give up. But after a pleasant but unremarkable bread service I end up with the cappellaci all'aragosta. To the pain of true Italians, I would describe cappellaci as ravioli-like pasta, and I have a rule (one I obviously play fast and loose with) about never ordering ravioli. Usually you end up paying $4-5 per raviolo along with the requisite self-loathing.
This one is the same: five cappellaci bathing in a sweet, creamy pink sauce, except there is skill involved here and I am actually full by the end. Unfortunately, the lobster inside is chopped up (the usual practice), where larger chunks would really help break up the monotony of texture. A touch of something else: crunch, acid, a burst of salt would help as well. There is a hint of mild sweetness from the crustacean, but otherwise it is mostly lost in the sauce, despite the latter's own lack of aggression.
It's a solid, inoffensive plate of food with fresh well-made pasta. If that's what you're looking for, Sapori is a good bet. I just wish my neighborhood's joint took a few more risks. That's one I would surely return to.
2.5 of 5 stars
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